Travelogue: Cape Town

OUR CAPE TOWN ESSENTIALS (UPDATED!)

We've done our share of eating and exploring in and around Cape Town. While we haven’t been home recently, these are some of our not-to-be-missed experiences in Cape Town and other areas in South Africa. Let us know if you’re heading to this majestic place, we’d love to chat! And if you discover that any of these recommendations are now closed, please let us know so we can add updates.

Cape Town:
EATS

- Beluga. Inside The Foundry. You can eat outside on the inner square or indoors. Happening scene. Menu is the restaurant's cookbook. You can spend the eve perusing recipes if you need some conversation starters.

- Bread (CLOSED). The European style bistro inside the Bromwell (CLOSED); and note the Bromwell below under shopping. It’s totally unique, highly curated.

- Bukhara. Just off Green Market Square, upstairs. Amazing Indian. Their Kingclip tandori or tikka are amazing, very paneer saag paneer!

- Col Cacchio Pizzeria. Camps Bay location faces the ocean. Simply, one of the best places for gluten free pizza we've come across. Delicious composed salads and crafted pizzas.

- Fork (CLOSED). On Long Street. The upstairs has a cozy vibe and a balcony when the weather permits. Tapas. Some very interesting small plate creations from Spanish and Mediterranean cuisine. 

- Grand Cafe and Beach (CLOSED). It's along the waterfront, passed the Radison Hotel and Old Yacht club and if I'm remembering it's the 2nd left onto a dirt road. When the weather permits, make a resi for a table on the beach. Check out the curated items in the retail store. Enjoyed the Avocado Ritz salad, Sugar Salmon, Grilled Kingclip and the long rectangular pizza.

- Greens (CLOSED). Around the corner from the Wellness Warehouse. Simple, fresh menu.

- Groot Constantia. Constantia winelands. Lovely tea and scones for a lazy afternoon. We ate outside in the courtyard at Jonkershuis Restaurant.

- Mount Nelson Hotel for High Tea. This is an institution and no trip to Cape Town is complete with this traditional experience.

- The Neighbourgoods Market. Woodstock area. Saturdays only. Local vendors create delicious breakfast and brunch fare.

- Newport. On the waterfront, passed the lighthouse. After a power walk or bike ride, there's nothing like their muesli or Bircher breakfasts with fragrant honey and julienned apples and a fresh carrot juice. 

- The Test Kitchen. Inventive food. Bold flavors. Creativity. Advance reservations required.

- Wellness Warehouse's WellCafe (CAFE MAY NOW BE CLOSED). Inside the Wellness Warehouse is the WellCafe. The location is where Long Street turns into Kloof Street. Very casual, bring your laptop or read the paper. Great vegetarian options, including Gluten Free bread. We enjoyed the grilled mushroom sandwich with rocket and Eden cheese.

SHOP

- The Biscuit Mill. This converted old biscuit factory is home to day and night markets and retail venues full of inspiring makers and collaborators. On Albert Road in the up and coming industrial neighborhood of Woodstock, one of Cape Town's oldest suburbs, the main attraction is the renovated eco-conscious space. Housing stationery shops, antique artefacts, clothing, jewelry, art, ceramics and other collectibles, you can also visit our jewelry designer, Jess Lea!

- BlueCollarWhiteCollar (CLOSED). Fabulous garments mix patterns with details like a surprise on the underside of a collar or a coordinating cuff.

- The Bromwell (CLOSED). This is not your conventional shopping mall. A unique place to discover art, décor, accessories and other finds. Located in Woodstock.

- Melissa's (CLOSED). Food, table top and healthy fare from a couple who have stayed true to their values for over 20 years.

- Wellness Warehouse. A 360⁰ approach to wellness to meet your every need while vacationing in Cape Town. Natural skincare and beauty, wide range of food, beverages, biodynamic wines, local spices and jams.

PLAY

- Kirstenbosch. One of the great botanic gardens of the world has an incredible amphitheater and live music program, especially their summer series. If Goldfish is playing, you’re in for a groovy house beats meets soulful world music. We've seen them many times since, as they Goldfish plays in San Francisco a lot! So fun!

- Lion’s Head Hike. This distinctively shaped mountain slope can be hiked in around 90 minutes to the summit. Chains and ladders will get you to the top. Spend time once you arrive. Magnificent views.

- Table Mountain Hike. Spectacular views, flora and fauna. Moderate to extreme difficulty trails. Plan at least 3-5 hours and a meal at the top. Cable Cars for those who might need a lift.

- Design Indaba. For inspiration and a celebration of creativity. This is South Africa's premier conference bringing a who's who of design intelligence to the Western Cape. Speakers included Gary Hustwit, Bruce Nussbaum, Michael Beirut, the Bouroullec Brothers, Tord Boontje, William Drenttel and even Martha Stewart.

Design Indaba Expo is the exhibitor program of the conference showcasing 260 local and international talent across advertising, architecture, craft, film, fashion, jewelry and product design. Some of the local township craft and student design was as sophisticated as many of the established designers and there was a strong showing of socially conscious works.

Near Cape Town:

Hout Bay:

- Chapman's Peak Hotel Restaurant. Classy, great vibe, amazing Kingclip (where my love of Kingclip was born in 2008).

- Kitima (CLOSED). Main road towards Chapman's Peak. Trendy, inside fancy, outdoor more casual (yet in a hip lounge-y way). Delicately prepared Asian fusion cuisine.

One visit, we stayed on the Atlantic side of the Cape Peninsula where the Twelve Apostles provide a majestic backdrop to some of the world's most beautiful beaches. Our morning walk began in Bantry Bay at Saunders Rock. Around the bend is the Bay of Clifton (pictured below).

Into Clifton, there are 4 coves and corresponding beaches: 1st Beach, 2nd, 3rd and 4th Beach (and a 5th beach called Moses). From Clifton Beach, we cruised into Camps Bay, an exclusive area lined with cafes, restaurants, live music, dancing, luxury homes and gorgeous views. Cyclists congregate for coffee at the weekend and many ride the beloved Argus Cycle Tour race.

After a cappuccino, we took Upper Road back to Bantry Bay with different vantage points above the coast line, including Lion's Head (located in the area of Table Mountain and Signal Hill), and concluding with a dip at Saunders Rocks.

Franschhoek:

- Le Bon Vivant. A block off the main road in town. Sophisticated dining. Each bite a work of art. Portions are just right.

- Le Petit Ferme. In the winelands. Very lovely views, great food. Don't feed the baboons on your way over, nor roll down your window to take pix!

- Reuben's. On the main road in town. Inventive fusion food, hip crowd.

Riebeek Valley:

The Riebeek Wine Valley has a long history tracing back to the Huguenots. The early settlers arrived in the 1700's, establishing many prominent wine farms still in production today. A more recent crop that has brought visitors to the area is the olive, an industry only about 13 years old. While olive groves are plentiful, they were not tended to and the fruit was left to drop to the ground. In the late 90's 6 gentlemen, previously city dwellers and immigrants, traveled to Italy to be schooled in olive farming.

Unlike the more established Stellenbosch or the quaint Franschhoek, the Riebeek Valley is still a bit more "mom and pop," making for an easy 1/2 day trip. The highlights were the olive tastings, the Royal Hotel (one of the oldest hotels in South Africa, recently refurbished to the highest standards) and Cafe Felix (an upmarket restaurant and cafe with a gorgeous menu).

From the Atlantic Ocean to the Indian Ocean:

The Western Cape is bordered by two oceans, the Atlantic Ocean to the West and the Indian Ocean to the South. What you would notice here, versus the Pacific, is the color of the water– a luminescent blend of greens, blues and teals– and the emotional and thundering waves which never cease to inspire.

We began our scenic drive and beach landings along the Atlantic coast at Llandudno, a nearly private cove and upmarket suburb. While there are minimal attractions other than the white sand beach (no shops or city life), surfers do come for the waves. Around the bend is Sandy Bay, another secluded beach, where Little Lion's Head is in the shadow of this nudist beach.

From this stretch of coast, we drove into Hout Bay (also called the Republic of Hout Bay by residents who covet the limited access to their coastal community). One of the most dramatic cliff side drives from Chapman's Peak brings you along the majestic Bay where the Sentinel looms and fisherman bring their daily catch to local and nearby restaurants. We sampled fresh caught yellowtail and chips (french fries in the states).

Next stop is the seaside village of Kommetjie known for being one of Cape Town's hot surfing and kite surfing spots. The stretch of beach where surfers congregate continues through to Noordhoek. We stopped at the Slangkoppunt Lighthouse commissioned in 1914 to safeguard against shipwrecks on the rocky shore and in Scarborough, a quiet conservation village.

Leaving the Atlantic for the Indian Ocean, we passed through Cape Point without stopping off, as we'd spent heaps of time there 2 years ago. With some good timing, we came upon a private harbour where the fishermen bring their catch. It happened to be the end of their day as we arrived, and we observed them for a bit, cleaning and preparing. Leaving the Indian Ocean, we traveled back inland and over the pass into Constantia to Groot Constantia for an afternoon tea and scones to conclude the day.

Jeffrey, his cyclist partner John from the Cape Epic, and I travelled out to Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope, the day after our return to Cape Town. Along the way we once again passed my favorite view in Cape Town, the Sentinal at the entrance to Hout Bay. We went through Chapman's Peak (fondly known by most locals as Chappies), passing Noordhoek, Kommetjie (a surfer's paradise), stopping in Slangkoppunt to take pix of the lighthouse and watch the horses run along the beach in Long Beach, and passing through Misty Cliffs and into Scarborough, landing at the Table Mountain National Park and Cape Point.

This area is popularly perceived as the meeting point of the Atlantic and the Indian Oceans. Geographically, however, the Indian Ocean joins the Atlantic Ocean at Cape Agulhas. The local authority proclaimed the area a nature reserve in 1938 and it was incorporated into the Table Mountain National Park in 1998.

~ Bonnie & Jeffrey

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